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7 June 2023

Letter from Marseille: the lawless metropolis

Riven by violence and drugs, France’s second city is descending into anarchy.

By Andrew Hussey

The best place to take in Marseille is from the esplanade of the Notre-Damae de la Garde basilica. The church, crowned by a golden statue of the Virgin Mary, stands nearly 500ft high on a limestone hill overlooking the city from its southern side. Built in the mid 19th ­century, the basilica is a mishmash of neo-Byzantine and Romanesque architecture styles. When you first arrive in Marseille, whether by sea, road or train, you can’t miss Notre-Dame de la Garde, which dominates the skyline. ­Accordingly, the church has become an ­emblem of the city; it is to Marseille what the ­Eiffel Tower is to Paris.

Marseille is France’s second city, with a population of 900,000, and it is a huge, sprawling conurbation that can be ­famously confusing to navigate. From the Notre-Dame de la Garde esplanade, however, it is spectacular. On a clear day you can make out the mountains that ring the north, east and south of the city. You can see, too, how its layout has been shaped around the Mediterranean, from the elegant Corniche to Le Vieux Port, the bustling and picturesque heart of Marseille. Seen from this height, Marseille looks like a place you can make sense of.

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