The late AA Gill said there were two kinds of slum. “There are slums that grow out of too little, and slums that grow out of too much.” Sexy Fish, a restaurant that opened on Berkeley Square in October 2015, is a hysterical example of the latter.
Masterminded by the billionaire clothing ’n’ clubs tycoon Richard Caring, Sexy Fish cost as much to build as a nuclear submarine, and instantly became the place la haute paid £350 for 50g of beluga. The Esmeralda onyx marble floor was shipped in from benighted Iran. Frank Gehry supplied an ornamental 13ft glossy black crocodile; Damien Hirst made a bronze bas-relief of a shark. Hirst’s fish hung above the strawberry-coloured lava stone bar. The slum was populated by many, many statues of glaring blue mermaids.
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