New Times,
New Thinking.

  1. Culture
  2. Food & Drink
13 July 2018updated 30 Jun 2021 11:51am

Bush Tukker Trial: the Alba Restaurant, St Ives

The food is good, but not at this price.

By Stephen Bush

Here’s a rule that more restaurateurs should follow: if you wouldn’t want something done in a certain way in your own home, it probably shouldn’t happen in your restaurant either. Weird plates, a great show being made of your food being “cooked in front of you”, not being able to fill up your own wine glass in your own damn time… these are all things that would happily pass into dining history if this simple stricture were kept to.

Similarly, no one would voluntarily install motion-activated taps in their own loo, and so restaurants shouldn’t either. We’d come straight from the beach to the Alba restaurant, St Ives, so I kicked off proceedings with a trip to the bathroom to wash my hands, which took a full five minutes of waggling my fingers under the faucet until water finally and miraculously appeared.

Subscribe to The New Statesman today from only £8.99 per month
Content from our partners
Towards an NHS fit for the future
How drones can revolutionise UK public services
Chelsea Valentine Q&A: “Embrace the learning process and develop your skills”