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5 February 2017updated 30 Jun 2021 11:55am

Ghost grapes in the walls of ancient Paris

Nina Caplan takes a walk through the rich viticultural history of the French capital.

By Nina Caplan

Some believe that Noah was the first winemaker, planting a vineyard after the Flood in what was surely unhelpfully waterlogged soil. Here was wine in a pleasant torrent, and Noah proceeded to celebrate God’s bounty until he passed out.

There was no rain on Geoffrey Finch’s Paris Wine Walk, but it was nonetheless heartening to find, among the neat rows of obsolete varieties in the small Jardin des Plantes vineyard, a vine called Noah.

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